On The March possesses an original set of the Feldbluse specifications. We have used this as a basis for pattern development.
Some compromises had to be made, however. For example, the Germans sized their pockets based upon chest size and overall height, with the height being divided into 4 cm increments. At each increment, the pocket length changed! Since people are now generally a bit taller and the American system of short, regular and tall does not match up with the old German system, our pocket lengths do not always match the original specification. The good news is, you will never notice this tiny difference!
Placement of buttonholes, darts, the belthook eyelets, etc. however, do indeed match the original spec for sizes at and below 112 cm. Above that, we have extrapolated the placement. This is because the German spec ends at 112 cm. They were not big people.
Compare and See the Difference! Most reenactors have become accustomed to reproduction tunics that are not accurate. When first viewed, On The March tunics may appear odd-looking. But once compared side-by-side with an original (and even any other maker's repro tunic), the accuracy of the On The March tunic will become quite obvious.
Sizing and Pricing for High Quality Feldblusen All feldblusen are made using metric measurements, just like the originals.
Chest sizes: Standard size feldblusen are rather snug in the chest, but looser in the waist. If you require a looser fit, consider ordering a size larger. NOTE: We've had a lot of guys ask what a "106R" or a "124L" is, so here is the information: Tunic sizes are expressed in chest size in centimeters and overall length, just like suit coats. So a tunic that is metric size 106R will fit you if your normal suit coat is an American size 42R.
Sleeve lengths: regulars are ~ 62cm or 24"; if you provide your sleeve length, they will be made to your length at no additional charge. All shorts and talls are made to order.
Overall length: A regular will fit the average man that is between 5'7" and 5'10". Talls fit 5'11" to 6'2". Xtalls fit 6'3" to 6'6". Shorts fit 5'3" to 5'6".
Waist circumference: Standard size feldblusen are made with relatively generous waist measurements to accomodate the bulky trousers typical of German uniforms. Please note that we ask for your waist size to ensure that the standard size will fit. We will increase the size if needed, but generally do not make the waist smaller than the standard size.
Neck size: Collars should fit such that you can put two fingers between your neck and the collar. Collars are made to your neck with this in mind.
Special sizes: Xtall, XXtall, Xshort, large waist, wide shoulders, etc., are available upon request. Surcharge for special sizes is reflected in the above pricing charts.
Sewing of Additional Insignia All standard feldblusen prices include standard enlisted man's eagle and collar insignia. The fee for any additional insignia sewn on, whether customer-provided or provided by us, is $5 per piece. (So that's $5 for each collar tab.) Insignia will be either hand-sewn or machine-sewn, our preference.
Construction Notes Each feldblusen is handcrafted one at a time using as many original style materials as possible. Over 65 individual pieces are cut from five different fabrics using our own patterns, then carefully assembled into one complete feldbluse. We even hand-finish areas such as the collar and armhole facings (on the M36 and M40), just like on our original examples.
We use German-milled wool, plain weave and accurate in color. Our M43 and M43 lining fabric is not dark bronze, but a medium taupe, a very close match to the original linings we've handled.
We use 11 (12 for late war models) wartime original pebbled steel buttons, repainted olive green, and 10 quality reproduction 15mm plastic or original pressed paper buttons to finish the tunic. Occasionally, you may find minor flaws in these buttons, such as small dents or some oxidation. But, then again, they are over 60 years old and have been through a major war!
All custom products are made using original feldgrau cotton thread for the primary stitching. Buttonholes and eyelets are sewn with a dark grey-green cotton thread.
This sad tunic has been sitting in many pieces for about 5 years now. We still refer to it on occassion, but maybe it's time to put it back together.
Our keyhole gimp-corded buttonhole
Buttonholes Our buttonholes are the correct style: eyelet "keyhole", gimp-corded, sewn on a Reece buttonhole sewing machine, with bartack finish. We will continue to sew our buttonholes with fieldgray thread.
We use dark brown gimp cord, as light-colored cording can become visible as the buttonhole wears. Our machine is a cut-after type. The Germans used mostly cut-before types, but we have seen some originals that were sewn on a cut-after machine.
About the Lower Pocket Types Below are pictures of the two types of expanding lower pockets used on field blouses. The first type is commonly called "bellows." The second type is known as "saddlebag." One type was not strictly used on a particular model, but generally, the saddlebag type was more commonly seen on the mid- and late-war field blouses. In the On The March collection is an M40 with rayon lining and saddlebag lower pockets with a depot stamp of "WB 42." Which means that it was most probably manufactured in late 1941 or sometime in 1942 using later war materials and details but retaining some of the early war styling.
If you desire a particular style, please state this in your order and we will be happy to oblige.
bellows type lower pockets used on M36, M40, and M41 feldblusen
saddlebag type lower pockets used on M42 and M43 feldblusen
